Gwangjang Market: Between Nostalgia and Change ☕🥢

 Starbucks Gwangjang Market
88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno District, Seoul

It’s been a while since I last visited Gwangjang Market, and I have to admit — it feels different now. Once known for its raw charm and authentic energy, the market seems to have shifted in recent years. With all the media attention and influx of tourists, it’s become noticeably more commercialized.

Some of the vendors who used to welcome curious wanderers with friendly smiles now seem wearier, more transactional. Prices have climbed, and new rules — like requiring every person to order at least one dish — have become surprisingly common. I understand the need for structure, especially with so many visitors crowding the narrow aisles. Still, part of what made Gwangjang special was the freedom to graze and explore — to share bites, discover flavors, and feel like you were part of something spontaneous. That sense of easy hospitality feels a little lost now.

What really caught my attention this time, though, was the sight of a Starbucks right in the heart of the market. To its credit, the store has been designed thoughtfully — warm lighting, hanok-inspired elements, and subtle nods to the surrounding architecture. But as I watched people line up for their lattes just a few steps away from decades-old food stalls, I couldn’t help but wonder what this means for the small, independent cafés that have long been part of the market’s character.

There’s an odd tension between the old and the new here — the global and the local, coexistence and competition. Maybe that’s inevitable in a city that’s always evolving. Still, as much as I appreciate the convenience of a familiar coffee chain, a part of me misses the quieter corners and family-run shops that once defined this place.

I’m not sure if I’ll be back soon, but if I do return, I hope I can still find those small, sincere moments — a bowl of hot mayak gimbap shared at a crowded counter, or a hand-poured coffee made by someone who knows your name. Because that’s the Gwangjang Market I’ll always remember.