Missing the Seoul That Once Was

Capturing the charm and heritage of old neighborhoods before they fade.

Seoul is a city in constant metamorphosis — always rebuilding, always reinventing. I love the convenience of wide, polished sidewalks and shiny new cafés that look like they were lifted straight from a design magazine. Rows of manicured flowers, perfectly trimmed street trees… it’s all beautiful. But there’s a different kind of beauty I find myself longing for — the charm of Seoul’s old streets that are quietly disappearing.

Everywhere I walk, construction cranes rise into the sky like markers of a farewell. First comes the demolition — buildings coming down before anyone can pause long enough to feel the loss. Then, overnight, the barricades go up. The history of the neighborhood is sealed away behind steel walls, as if the memories were never there.

And yet, in that brief in-between moment, something magical happens. Local artists appear, almost spontaneously, turning blank construction barricades into vibrant murals. Weathered shop signs and crumbling walls are transformed into canvases, a tribute to the streets that once were. On one corner, I even spotted a mural featuring Jung Kook of BTS, rendered with striking detail and energy, bringing a contemporary touch to the nostalgic landscape. For a fleeting moment, the old streets come alive again — bursting with color, creativity, and unexpected inspiration — before everything familiar is replaced by the next trendy hotspot.

I was grateful to witness and capture some of those fleeting moments — the rustic corners of Seongsu-dong before craft coffee took over, and the narrow alleyways of Pimatgol before they were smoothed into modern dining streets. I still remember the smell of grilled mackerel at the tiny restaurant where I used to meet my husband — the warmth of the owners, generous with their food and even more generous with their smiles.

Those old streets weren’t just backgrounds — they were part of our stories.

Seoul will continue to evolve, and that’s part of its charm. But with every new building, I can’t help but think of the disappearing past — of the places that shaped this city and the memories we built within them. I miss that Seoul. And I’m grateful I saw it before it was gone.